Lorenzo and Joyce's scow & travel blog

2012-02-13T11:51:00.001-08:00

Creature of the day: Stoplight Parrotfish

Like some 18th century biologists, I thought these were two different species. But they're not- the red-tinged parrotfish are the juveniles, the green the adults. Both are pretty fabulous, and seen all over the place, happily crunching away at the coral.

This morning, we dove with a few other people from the anchorage- we just rented tanks at Fantasy Island, and took our dinghies out to the reef. We didn't go very deep- It was lovely and sunny, and we just puttered around at about 40 feet and then came up to an even shallower level. Last week, we took a Nitrox course so we could use tanks with more oxygen in the mix, and it does seem better- having less nitrogen in the blood should make you less fatigued. You can stay down longer, too- though you can't go quite as deep.

2012-02-07T06:05:00.000-08:00

For those who like ornate fences, this is a yard on the posh Iguana Farm Road in Roatan. On sunny days, iguanas bask on the lawns here- more or less protected by the wrath of Sherman. The swan motif is popular- assume lions are not available.

2012-02-03T14:09:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Blue Tang

These guys are so beautiful, and we see them browsing on the reef nearly every time we swim. A school might have 200 fish in it, in different shades of olive, pale blue, lavender, and silver. They just shimmer, like the scales of some larger creature.

2012-01-31T10:52:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Brittle Star

We saw a number of these guys yesterday, clinging to the inside of vase sponges and other corals. They're very skinny and black here, though elsewhere they take various shapes. Today was grey and rainy, so nobody felt like diving. Back tomorrow ...

2012-01-27T07:59:00.000-08:00

Chris Nannig suggested our creature is probably a siphonophore, an order that includes Man-o'-War jellies. They're actually colonies of tiny organisms acting as one.

Some grow to exciting lengths.

And though ours didn't sting, some are very toxic.

(see Wikipedia)

2012-01-25T04:51:00.000-08:00

We haven't been diving since Friday- the winds have been up around 20 mph, which is discouraging to those in dinghys, as well as the dive boats, which go out in any conditions.

But I've been trying to figure out what this creature is:

We saw it last week, near the surface of deep water. It was about 6 feet long, and tubular. It actually resembled the Korean sculpture over Muzz's kitchen sink, only in pink (or pinky-purple). At first I thought it was a net, but when I tried to grab it I realized it was a jelly of some kind.

We watched it for a while. As drifted lower in the water, fish surrounded and nibbled at it.

2012-01-17T15:34:00.000-08:00

Creatures of the day-
exhibiting our typical stylish form on a dive near French Key.

Phnom Penh day 2, and Siem Reap (photos)

2012-01-12T16:52:00.001-08:00

2012-01-12T05:57:00.000-08:00

Just a quick note on the adventures of the Eileen Farrell-

We are still anchored in French Harbor with about 25 other sailboats in a lovely secure spot; a reef protects us from the open water and the island from the prevailing winds. We've started diving again- we hooked up with a divemaster who lives in the water and will dive anytime she can get someone to pay for a tank of Nitrox. What a deal. Evenings we go in to Mike's marina and hang with the other cruisers, swap the usual tall tales (guys) or survival hints (women), over pot lucks or whatever the staff cooks up. Last night was shrimp fest, tonight pizza.

In a week or so, we'll get a new smaller quieter generator coming from Miami, and then move on up the coast. We are hearing wonderful things about the islands all along the reef from here to Panama, so we will be moving slowly.

Cambodia 4

2012-01-12T04:22:00.000-08:00

Pippa here-
Our second day in Phnom Penh was less busy, but just as exciting.

We started out by getting up and walking to the yuppie-tourist cafe located half a block from our hotel. The coffee was good, and the wi-fi signal was much stronger than the one at our hotel. Afterwards, we walked in the direction of the night-market (north) to purchase some coffee for Willa. Along the way back to the hotel we bought some excellent fry-bread from a street vendor. Of the three cities we have been to, Phnom Penh has the largest amount and greatest variety of street food.

After we dropped off the coffee at the hotel, we returned to the streets and got a tuk tuk to the central market. Phnom Penh's central market is a big market-place which is housed under Cambodia's largest free-standing dome. When we finished at the central market, we returned to the hotel for midday showers. Once refreshed, we set out to visit the animal preserve outside of Phnom Penh. Our hotel helped us get a good tuk tuk driver, which is good because it is a half-a-day excursion (especially considering how slow some tuk tuks go).

The preserve was amazing. Some of the animals were rescued from land-mine accidents. There were a surprising number of Sun Bears. The animals seemed to be not unfamiliar with humans, and many of them came up close to the fence. The preserve's enclosures also allowed people much closer than any American zoo would. At the end of the preserve there was a small enclosure, around which a large crowd had gathered. Inside the circle stood a few preserve workers and Mrs. Lucky, the preserve's dancing elephant. Mrs. Lucky first walked around and collected money (donations for the preserve) and fruit (for herself) from the children, she then danced to a traditional cambodian song.

After watching Mrs. Lucky, we found our tuk tuk driver (Moonin--he speaks Khmer, English and French) and he suggested we eat while still at the preserve. So we relocated the tuk tuk over to the huts where a good meal could easily be procured. Moonin helped us with translating and we settled down. Outside of such cities like Phnom Penh it is typical to see set-ups where outside of houses (or underneath houses, as khmer homes predominantly stand on stilts) are small open-air huts; beneath which stand platforms covered in straw mats for lounging. Then, above the platforms (or between the house stilts), hang multitudes of hammocks; also for lounging in, particularly after meals.

After a while of sitting around and talking, our meal came. Khmer food isn't typically spicy itself, but there are usually a variety of sauces and peppers offered with the meals for the individual's preference. Our meal was chicken in a broth, rice and a beef dish. Mom and Moonin drank waters, I had lychee drink and dad had an Angkor ("my country, my beer"). On the drive back, Moonin bought hearts of palm for his family and shared a few with us. They were a gelatinous shape with juice in the center; bitter and practically flavorless.

The next day we took a bus to Siem Reap. Transportation in Cambodia never takes as long as it says it will. Driving out of the city into the countryside the landscape grew absolutely lush with rice fields, and everywhere you looked lotuses were growing like weeds (Note to Ann; 1 pond with all white lotuses spotted. Must be rare). Siem Reap has a lot to offer, but as a city goes it was somewhat disappointing to us after Phnom Penh (and still is in hindsight after experiencing Battambong). The town is markedly divided between the areas for the touristas, and the area for the locals.

As a result, we found ourselves immersed in a sea of fellow tourists (of whom there were a great variety; mostly families with small children, and the young partying type--lots of Aussies). We ended up spending four days in Siem Reap, three of which were spent at the Angkor temples (which merit their own post), and one at the Silk Farm Angkor d'Artisans and one of the Floating Villages on the Tonle Sap. The Silk Farm was ABSOLUTELY FASCINATING. Angkor d'Artisans works with local villages teaching trade skills to people to help them make a living. We did tour both their workshops (one was for lacquering, stone-carving, and wood-work; and the other was their silk-farm). The work that they do, particularly at the silk-farm, is so exquisite. I wish that I could have gotten one of everything in their shop, but I sadly lacked the funds (next time, I'll be prepared ;) ).

The floating villages each vary slightly in style. The one that we toured while in Siem Reap was all beautifully colored and decorated houses on stilts. Beside many of the houses were floating pens for livestock, like pigs and chickens. We pulled up to the village's temple after motoring around a bit and got out. We met with a young girl named Sena who gave us the tour. Despite the fact that it was a beastly hot day she was dressed in long pants, and two shirts (both long-sleeved, one with a turtle-neck) because she was cold (we appear to have come to Cambodia during its winter season). She was 17 years old, and she hoped to become a teacher for her village.

At the end of the tour she asked if we would be willing to buy a pack of workbooks for the students in the school, which we were more than happy to do. Each pack was $3.00, and had 10 notebooks. We bought a pack and mom and I climbed up the ladder to the schoolhouse on stilts and handed out the notebooks. The children were very cute and very appreciative. I felt like a bit of a heel deciding who would get a notebook and who wouldn't (since there were 10 notebooks and about 40 students), but I'm sure that we wouldn't be the last ones that day to buy from Sena.

Cambodia 3

2012-01-10T09:41:00.000-08:00

Meg here-
Greetings from Cambodia. Internet connections here are still iffy, so am taking advantage of the opportunity to say Hello. We've been here a week and already have done so much, it's starting to blur together. Phnom Penh is a huge noisy smelly loud city and I loved all of it! It was alive with color. We saw the museum and the palace and took tuk tuks around the city. The people are so nice, and everybody speaks English.

We went to Siem Reap by boat. Should have taken 5 hours. Boat broke down en route and we pulled into a tiny floating village while the village blacksmith re-machined boat parts...people had crocodiles in floating pens behind their huts, and they keep their pigs in floating corrals as well. It was amazing.

We are now in Battambong for several days, then back to Phnom Penh and home. We have a tuk tuk driver named Bunh who sits outside our hotel and waits for us to tell him where we want to go...it is all so surreal. I imagine India in the days of the Raj being similar for the lucky few. We are paying him well ( 20 dollars a day...a fortune by Cambodian standards) and he seems delighted with the arrangement.

We are too, as this is his home town, and he spent the day yesterday ferrying us to places we definitely would not have otherwise seen...a local blacksmith making garden tools, a bamboo sticky rice roadside operation, two women making rice paper wrappers, a woman who dries bananas, a fish cheese making factory (don't even ask.)

One thing I've learned is the Cambodians will eat anything. In the markets they have huge baskets of crickets and cockroaches for sale. They have restaurants that specialize in dog meat. They deep fry tarantulas to eat too! Sorry about that. I thought about leaving it out, but, in truth they were collectively starving under an onerous civil war and then the Khmer Rouge regime brutalized the country and literally starved them to death.

Today we signed up for a cooking class...NO BUGS!!! It should be great fun. I'm glad I was able to get online! How is it going in Rhode Island? I miss you guys a lot. Am hoping Muzz is doing OK. Let me know how things are at that end. Pips and I will be heading home next week, and I'm starting to look forward to getting into a routine again...to say nothing of having a hot shower.

Cambodia 2

2012-01-08T18:32:00.000-08:00

Pippa here-

Having been in and traveling around Cambodia for 6 days, I have to say that Phnom Penh still is my favorite place. The city teems with life - 2 million people call it home. From the streets, the architecture is one of the most visible signs of the French-colonial rule. The buildings are all in various stages of disrepair, giving them an "urban-decay" chic esthetic. It is very easy to get a good baguette and a STRONG cup of coffee in Phnom Penh (although probably not that surprising considering the French presence). The two days we spent in the city (we will however be definitely going back for more) were packed with activities. Getting over jet-lag wasn't as difficult as expected (probably since we all slept very little on our flights) so we just kept on trucking through the city.

After waking up on our first day, we left the hotel and just began wandering. We eventually made our way towards a market which was located in the neighborhood we were staying in. There are more markets here than you can shake a stick at. You can easily find anything from fresh meat (whole chickens, beef, pork, sausage, seafood--much of which is still alive on the block), to vegetables and herbs, to kitchen-wares, clothes, toys, dvds, cds, automotive parts, school materials, shoes, jewelry, etc --all in the same market. We got breakfast and then continued wandering. We ended up on a street which was lined with barbers and dad proceeded to get a $2.00 haircut/beard-trim. We continued along the same street to find coffee for mom (by her testimony, the strongest she had ever had). At the end of the very same road was the National Museum; outside of which we found one truly surprising banana tree, and inside of which is held the largest collection of Khmer sculpture (including a special exhibit of photographs of traditional Khmer dance poses). Both the museum's collection, and building were breathtaking. I'm afraid that I don't know how to say anything more than that...

After the National Museum, we took a tuk tuk to the Russian Markets. The predominant modes of transportation in Cambodia are 1.) Bicycle, 2.) Scooter and 3.) tuk tuk. Why these genius contraptions have not made it stateside yet is something we are still struggling over. A Tuk Tuk is basically a scooter with a miniature carriage attatched (see photograph). They're small enough that they are both inexpensive to ride and maneuverable, yet big enough that you can get a few people in. But I digress. The Russian Market is a MUST SEE for ANYONE in Phnom Penh. It is just like all other markets, only MUCH MUCH LARGER. Be forewarned however, it is very easy to get lost within it's maze of alleys, so try to be aware of where and in which direction you turn (or at least which side of the market you are facing at any given direction). From the Market, we took a tuk tuk back to the hotel to collapse for a bit.

After our siesta, we took a tuk tuk to Tuol Sleng which was one of the many prisons and execution grounds for the Khmer Rouge. The site (which was originally a school before the Khmer Rouge took it over) has been "converted" into a museum where one can walk through and look at the prison cells, and then room after room of boards covered with the photographs of the regime's prisoners; some before their execution, and some either after their death, or severe torture. The experience was overwhelming.

After Tuol Sleng, we went on to the Royal Palace. A large section of the grounds have been set aside for tourism, allowing people to view the believed site of some of the Buddha's ashes, and the "emerald buddha" (a green quartz sculpture) --all within the silver pagoda; a pagoda whose floor is tiled in over 5,000 solid silver tiles. The oddest thing about the silver pagoda was the fact that much of the floor was carpeted, so you could feel the tiles moving under your feet, and the silver-tile section which was exposed for viewing appeared to be taped together with duct tape.

That mostly ended our first day about in Phnom Penh. After dinner, and more rest, we did go out for a bit to explore the night market in the north of the city. The night market was very lively, and very fun. It appeared to be a big place for the young people of the city to meet up and hang out. In the center was a large stage with some pop-singer performing on it, then stalls around that, and in the back a large area for eating. We wandered around, took photos, and returned to our hotel to sleep, concluding our day.

I want to stress, even though we have not posted much of our travels yet, that what is posted is just the tip of the iceberg. I'm certain that each of us could tell very different variations of our time if sat down individually.

2012-01-08T05:44:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Longsnout Seahorse

This is the first seahorse I've seen- and what a gorgeous one. He's big, about six inches long, and bright yellow. We saw him at about fifty feet, on the coral wall where everyone dives. And the photo is actually him- the photographer, other Joyce, took me along as a dive buddy. So we get to look at the actual creatures afterwards- fun!

2012-01-05T11:07:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Green Moray

Well, we were looking down on him from at least twenty feet, so he looked more like an old tire. He was lying in the sand, right under the speedway for boats, snorkelers, and divers. It's the first time we've seen a moray eel completely out in the open. Usually you just see the head snaking out of its hole.

Today went diving in the same spot, and saw two morays- two! entire morays! chasing each other, in & out of crevasses. AND they were five feet from me. I decide the morays here are quite forward, compared to the shy ones in Utila.

2012-01-02T07:37:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Scrawled Filefish

These guys are very slow-moving, and the first one we saw was camouflaged to near-invisibility. Only the fact of him being two feet long popped him into view against the coral. Lorenzo gave up and was swimming away when he spotted another, much brighter one of similar size.

Airplanes, airplanes and more airplanes. OH MY!

2012-01-01T17:03:00.001-08:00

Pippa here-
Upon arrival to the Phnom Penh International Airport, general concensus: we love Korean Airlines.
The flight from LA to Seoul was not quite as long as expected, but it was far more comfortable than I believe any of us expected. The seats were roomy, the in-flight service was excellent (one of the first things which was offerred once the stewardesses could walk around the cabin safely was complementary wine --red or white-- juice, or water). I believe that if any of us had almost ANY abilities whatsoever to peacefully sleep either in chairs or airplanes peacefully, then it would have been perfect. The entertainment was equally great (although I was surprised at the lack of Korean dramas and the small variety of music --for instance, they only had the 2nd album of Korean Pop Sensation "Big Bang"; I suggest looking up on YouTube either their recent video "Tonight", or their collaboration with girl band 2NE1 "Lolipop").
When we arrived at Phnom Penh the desk for visa applications was a madhouse. There were no distinct lines until about three feet in front of the desk, one just had to push forward. Thankfully our hotel had not failed us in providing a driver, so once we got our visas and had our passports cleared we were good to go.
(figured I'd start from the beginning. We will be going to Siem Reip today; home of Ankor Wat. Once there, I'll try and post photos and more accounts)

Hal says-
At nature reserve outside Phnom Penh. 2 hr tuk tuk ride. Ate with locals. Pippa doing well. Ate her first chicken foot. Having reservations about the crickets though. A wonderful time!

2012-01-01T06:42:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Porcupinefish

Yesterday we went swimming in a rainstorm- very nice underwater. We watched one of these guys for a while- his size made him easy to follow. He went pretty deep, below where we could see him, and then came up to shallower water, turning around to show all possible angles. We didn't scare him- when frightened, they blow themselves up into a spiky ball. Very cute fish- pug lovers would find him irresistible.

2011-12-28T16:51:00.000-08:00

Creature of the day: Caribbean Reef Squid

We were following a mixed school of fish, and I went to see them closer up - something about their fins looked weird. Then I recognized- SQUID! Though they were with other fishes, they were swimming together in a line- typical for them.

2011-12-26T05:52:00.000-08:00

So on Christmas, in between showers, we took the dinghy over to the iguana farm- right here on the anchorage. At midday, there are hundreds of iguanas sleeping and sunning themselves in piles. It's quite a sight. Their benefactor is Sherman, who owns the surrounding land. His website informs iguanas it's a good place not to be eaten. He very sweetly asked us to lunch with his family, quite a treat. We look forward to seeing the iguanas have their lunch- it's supposed to be a real feeding frenzy.

2011-12-24T04:47:00.000-08:00

may you get everything you ever wanted for Christmas!

2011-12-22T07:46:00.000-08:00

We took the dinghy over to Fantasy Island yesterday- for $5, you can sit by their pool and listen to endless reggae muzak. There are some lovely iguanas idling about. This one hung with us for a while, after we fed him some cantaloupe

2011-12-18T10:48:00.000-08:00

The other day we noticed a collection of fishing boats anchored right in the middle of the harbor, apparently all part of the same fishing fleet. Another cruiser told us they'd been seized by the authorities for trafficking drugs. They want to send a message: No drugs here!

He asked the police what the Hondurans planned to do with all these boats. The guy seemed puzzled. "Do?"

2011-12-16T13:05:00.000-08:00

We got all the way to the other end of the island today, and found the road was missing. This is the spot where all the divers and trekkers stay. It's a little muddy, since it's been raining steadily all week, but has all the attractions: diving and food, yes- and also: parasailing, snuba, canopying (??) and power snorkeling (!!!) We may re-anchor to check out the reef on this side.

photo courtesy of SV Sound Effect, as my camera is not working.

2011-12-11T05:09:00.001-08:00

Here's the Caribbean weather- three days of nonstop rain, and we're not even in the giant wet spot off Panama. Northerlies, the sailors tell us. That's what you get in December. It's lucky we came right to the south side of the island, and boats were streaming in here yesterday from the more exposed West End. Things will be fine till we run out of fruit and vegetables, at which point we'll all contract scurvy. Or brave a trip to the supermarket.

2011-12-07T05:05:00.001-08:00

Fish I.D.

yesterday we swam with a school of these-

and there's always plenty of these-

one of these is usually hovering around

-and sometimes a couple of these!

2011-12-04T04:34:00.001-08:00

It's still so rainy and cool here we're actually wearing pants and- last night- jackets. We went to a new restaurant across the anchorage- very ambitious for here, with a dining room on the water, a larger restaurant up on the road, and a separate island for after hours. The owner is an Iranian guy from Laguna Beach, and he's into fabulousity. He brought a chandelier from an LA theater, all yellow and green mirrored glass, and built a Spanish-themed room around it. He's got the local kids trained to wait tables, no mean feat. And he's raising his own lamb. This is clearly the most interesting game in town, and well worth $27 for dinner.

a more typical restaurant for Roatan would be-

2011-12-02T04:44:00.001-08:00

eagle rays in the anchorage- jumping out of the water.
sorry, no pic. you just have to be here.

snorkeling on this reef is different: it's deep, so we're not looking at coral in lovely colors (plus it's been sort of gray out)- but the fish! we were swimming with schools and schools of who knows who.

2011-11-30T13:22:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Roatan a few hours ago. Found a nice CALM anchorage on the south side of the island, off Fantasy Island Marina. Expected a more honkytonk place- after all, it's a Carnival Cruise port- but except for the odd tour boat peering at us, it seems very laid back. So far, the water's murky, with lots of seagrass and conch.

This is what we're using as a navigational chart-

2011-11-28T06:06:00.001-08:00

Cold front moves in on Honduras with steady 25 mph winds from the North, needless to say, we are hunkered down with 200 ft of chain out in the middle of Utila harbor. We did a bunch of diving the last couple of days which was fun and when the weather settles a bit we will head East some 25 miles to Roatan. Supposedly some good stores and restaurants there.

2011-11-22T11:00:00.001-08:00

Captain Joyce takes the helm. Joyce moved the boat singlehanded from the lagoon to Utila, raising the anchor by herself, steering out of the lagoon and into Utila harbor to a perfect spot, and set the anchor. And she did it very well. Now I can have my heart attack in peace.

2011-11-22T03:57:00.001-08:00

Oooooh, fish heads fish heads. The cats are soooo happy!
We're anchored out here alone at the West end of Utila, in a big lagoon surrounded by reefs and deep in the middle. We swim and snorkel and try to stay out of the blazing sun midday, and chase down a local fisherman to buy fresh albacore tuna, dine on the fillets and let the cats go wild. They instinctively know how to pick out the bones and leave them.
We are out of veggies, so today we're heading back to Utila to stock up, and maybe dive some more.

Octopus lairs!

2011-11-19T09:24:00.001-08:00

Yesterday we were snorkeling on the quiet side of the island, finding nothing but seagrass beds. We did see a few conch, and then Lorenzo noticed there were lobsters all around the edge of the grass, where it changed elevation. The lower area was sandy, and as we were cruising around we started to see holes about a foot in diameter, widely separated from each other. Around them were piles of empty shells, and some tiny fish.

Inside each hole was a strange creature- an octopus!

Common octopuses, like other octopus species, discard the remains of their bivalve and crustacean prey just outside their lairs into piles called middens . These piles have proven useful to scientists to study the feeding habits of the common octopus. The piles also make it easier to spot an octopus lair and therefore perhaps an octopus.

2011-11-17T05:45:00.001-08:00

Selling Dorado to the dive boat

We're still lolling about Utila, going on a dive every few days. Yesterday, Lorenzo experienced the dreaded mask squeeze, which sometimes happens- it comes from the pressure descending exerts on your face mask. He was already persona non grata under water for surfacing without a safety stop from 70 feet- not a good thing. So today he's sitting here eating pineapple while he recovers from the trauma. We might toddle over to another snorkel spot later on.

2011-11-08T15:40:00.000-08:00

Back in Utila and in salt water again, took a dip and saw an Eagle Ray right in front of me.
First day out of Guate was a mess, anchor all tangled up, Joyce jumping in to retrieve the boat hook twice, me wrestling to tie down the dinghys in a pitching sea as they slid all over the roof. Seas not really bad, but coming from the wrong direction and we were just plain sloppy after hanging on a river for four months. Second day was calmer and we put out the paravanes which made the boat feel like a big fat Caddy with soft tires, nice.

2011-11-04T10:30:00.000-07:00

Here's the lovely small town of Livingston, where we just checked out of Guatemala. Got to spend some extra time because the ATM's weren't working- it really is a lovely place, after a few months of shopping in Fronteras, whose one street is packed with food vendors and cattle trucks. But Livingston is unreachable except by water. Now we're waiting for the tide to come up so we can get across the shallow bar and back into the ocean.

2011-11-02T12:22:00.000-07:00

View Roatan x2 in a larger map

Here's our course for the next week or so- as interpreted by Google, of course. We'll leave tomorrow and fuel up while still on the river, then head for Livingston to check out with Guatemalan immigration. Then we'll probably spend the night somewhere on the coast of Honduras, and check in to Utila on monday.

2011-10-24T06:32:00.000-07:00

Oops,

Here comes Rina with another right behind it.

We're good where we are, but Roatan might not be such a good idea this week.

2011-10-18T06:53:00.000-07:00

The party is slowly winding down, one last potluck tonight before we all move on. The hurricane season passed with no real storms and none in view. Most of the folks that hang here do so at the insistence of their insurance companies, and that ends Nov 15.

We will stay until the end of the month and then head back out to Utila and the rest of the Bay Islands of Honduras. We picked up a fiberglass lancha locally made and a new 15 hp Yamaha 2 stroke and are stocking the larder with cat food and filling the freezer. I must say that the Rio Dulce is a lovely place to pass some time, the Guats are delightful and the gringoes are crazy as loons, the water is sweet and easy on the boat and fun to swim in, and the local markets pretty much have what you need.

The general plan is to slowly head south through the islands toward Panama. The coast of Nicaragua and Costa Rica are mostly isolated mangrove swamps with very few attractions so most just pass them by.

2011-10-13T10:18:00.000-07:00

Just got back from Guatemala City after a few days of shopping amid torrential downpours. Luis, who owns the marina here, has a place in the city, so we drove with him and hauled back all our stuff in his truck. Cat litter. Battery charger. Chinese mushrooms! Stores are either open air venues like this auto parts place, where you provide your own security- or like WalMart, the absolute peak of luxury shopping, which provides a gated parking lot and armed guards. Restaurants were unexpectedly good; we stayed in the 10th, considered the civilized zone.

2011-10-07T07:20:00.000-07:00

Our inflatable dinghy was stolen last weekend, which made us both very sad. It was tied up in its usual spot next to our boat, tied on both sides so we could push it over to the dock: not well secured. We were having dinner with the other denizens a few hundred feet away. And right at dusk- the most opportune moment for dinghy-stealing.

Dave on the boat next to us wants to sell his fiberglass lancha, so we're going to buy it from him. At least the bottom won't get torn up by the reefs. And it will be sporting an incredible number of locks and chains.

2011-09-29T08:19:00.000-07:00

Sometimes we have breakfast at this little stand in town. Eggs, of course, and maybe beef or ham - but also fried plantains, beans, and tortillas. Today it was $3 (25Q) for us both.

2011-09-27T07:49:00.000-07:00

This place, Vista Rio, has one of those great hand-painted signs. We come here for their steaks- pretty good, of the grass-fed local type. So last night they were having their Monday night special- ribs! A bunch of us decided to come over for an early dinner. The drinks were great- fresh pineapple, papaya, or watermelon, with or without rum. The side dishes were lovely- roasted vegetables and two great salads.

The ribs were cooked exactly the way they do their steaks, 10 minutes on the fire. Good thing nobody ordered them rare.

2011-09-25T07:14:00.000-07:00

Somebody sat in my hammock with a wet bathing suit
Whaaaaaaaaaaaa

2011-09-19T09:12:00.000-07:00

Saturday there was a big band 'La Sonora Dinamita' in town for Guatemalan Independence Day. It was very entertaining- a huge crowd showed up, even in the rain. It was a chance to see all the locals, the cruisers, and the backpacker volunteers together in one place.

2011-09-16T16:12:00.001-07:00

I switched hammocks

2011-09-06T15:57:00.000-07:00

We've been without internet for about week- though at times it reappears for a few minutes, just as a come-on. But now it's up- yay! In the interim, we've lazed through some very hot weather, and watched some impressive yachts dusted off for Labor Day weekend (some towing their kids behind in plastic watercraft.) The marina denizens put together a Labor Day feast, with lots of lavish eating. And now we're sitting around the palapa trading info on hurricane season. Most of us need to renew passports or cruising permits to stay here another month- so an excursion may be in store.

2011-09-03T08:17:00.000-07:00

This is the view from my hammock, where I have spent the last six weeks. Pot goes for $12 a lid and everyone here at the marina is a hard core stoner. Makes for some very lazy days. We consume hours figuring out which pineapple to cut up next, when to go for our swim, what to have for dinner, and watching the thunderstorms blow by. In a few weeks we will head back out to the Bay Islands for more snorkeling and diving and then maybe on to Columbia, or not. Some of the best reef is right here off Belize, but almost everyone says the people are real dickheads. When you're on a boat it's tricky because they can always throw a chain on it and demand a $5000 fine for wearing the wrong color shorts, or whatever excuse they want to come up with. Not a problem in Guatemala and Honduras, the folks here are very pleasant, a regular lovefest.

2011-09-02T06:58:00.000-07:00

We had a big rainstorm on the river Wednesday night, with some minor damage to the docks here and at the marina next door. The boats were all fine.

Yesterday we were back at Casa Guatemala to volunteer. As usual we spent most of the time standing around chatting. Local people manage the place, augmented by young volunteer teachers from other parts of the world.

Lorenzo's been able to help out by doing little construction projects- patching up plumbing and carpentry. But most of the buildings are threatening to fall on their heads, so he's always uneasy.

The kids are pretty undisciplined, so it's hard for me to just walk in there and do art with them. Whatever you're saying to them, they'd rather be playing ball!

2011-08-25T08:54:00.000-07:00

Back in Rio Dolce yesterday, an easy trip. The ride from Guatemala City is lovely. Customs wasn't too hard on me- even though I looked like I was about to open a marine parts store, they only charged me $15 duty. Another woman here sailed through last week with all sorts of pricey electronics for her boat in her carryon, which she explained as GPS. Theoretically you aren't supposed to pay duty at all, since your boat is in transit- but it's pretty painless.

I miss New England- never realized we live in such luxury! Picture yourself in the sixteenth century, just as a fun exercise.

more pix!

2011-08-15T07:22:00.000-07:00

A rainy day in R.I.

Ann and the girls came down fom Maine for the weekend, and did some fun things. We toured the historic sites of Providence: 30 Benefit, the Indian grocery, LORRAINE MILL. Saturday night was a sleepover with Bridget, Pippa and Kate. All girls- girl cats, girl mosquitos (yuh, Jas). Lots of cooking, too. Not sure how I'm going to get all these ingredients back to the boat.

2011-08-12T08:21:00.000-07:00

Must post something before Lorenzo gets waterlogged!

I'm in Rhode Island visiting my people. Saw Marty and Nancy in Boston, Luke and Kris picked me up at the airport with their mom. Added bonus: Jessica and Charlie visiting. We took Charlie to the beach- the Irish Riviera, as it is known. Water is COLD. Came to Portsmouth afterwards by bus- had pizza with Elle Chris Gallia Bridge Jas Kate Meg Pippa. Hung out with Muz yesterday, some driving involved. We're in her office now. Swam at island Park, water warmer. Weather is lovely, not too hot.

2011-07-29T09:51:00.000-07:00

Here's the little pool at Mango Marina. Most of these marinas are inexpensive places to tie up. They all have nice grounds, restaurants- or at least a barbeque- and plenty of spots to lounge about. One has a store, another its own rubber plantation. Some of them have guest cottages, mostly for Guatemalan weekenders. They're all within a 15 minute boat ride of the town of Rio Dulce, that chaotic marketplace for all necessities.

2011-07-21T08:35:00.000-07:00

Hanging out on Rio Dulce at Mango's Marina, named after the tree shown, a lovely spot with the usual local amenities- tiny pool, library, showers, home cooking on request. The ladies are teaching us to make tortillas, but it's practice practice practice. We're a 10 minute dinghy ride from town with our 4 hp motor- less with someone else's. There's a chaotic shopping street with phone cards, fried chicken vendors, banks, shoes, and everything else you could possibly want. Also pizza (ok), Chinese food (alleged), and a great bakery (sells out of bread in the first hour). But the shopping comes to us: a farm nearby sends a boat full of coolers to every marina on Tuesday and Saturday- with meats, dairy stuff, fresh bread, fruit, vegetables. Nice!

2011-07-16T07:16:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we went to the little town of El Estor- 'The Store', named by the British in colonial days. It was so hot when we got there, we were lounging around waiting for it to cool off so we could go ashore and get some groceries. A boat appeared alongside us- filled with military and port officials. They were charming, did a cursory check of our papers, admired the boat and the cats. And warned us not to leave the boat untended! larceny is a local failing, and seems to keep cruisers out of the area. A shame- it seemed like a prosperous town, with a market (what we'd call a farmer's market), a bakery, and two butchers. I got the shopping scoop from a Canadian girl walking with her little girl- she married into a local family who leads trips up into the mountains nearby.

2011-07-13T13:47:00.000-07:00

We're spending a few day at Lago de Izabal, a huge lake at the top of the Rio Dulce. It's sparsely populated and absolutely gorgeous. Yesterday we hiked to the thermal pools nearby- one cool pool has a hot waterfall cascading into it, onto your head if strategically placed. Met some sailors who came down from Texas through the reefs in Mexico and Belize. That was lots of fun, as we're usually by ourselves. They left this morning to return to Rio Dulce, but we thought we'd spend a few more days here. There's a small town nearby, and lots of small rivers to check out.

2011-07-10T11:14:00.000-07:00

We moved up into Lago Izabel, a large lake some 30 miles up the Rio Dulce, and anchored out off a little resort. Took a walk this morning along a footpath through the villages along the lake, very nice. Guatemala is magical.

Joyce uploaded Skype and talked to Alice for awhile. Third world countries seem to have the most advanced wireless service- otherwise, no phone calls to the US. And it's cheap- or if you're both on the computer, free.

Rio Dulce, Guatemala

2011-07-06T11:56:00.000-07:00

We just arrived at Fronteras- that's the American wild west part of Guatemala, where cruisers store their boats for the summer. We're just puttering around trying to figure out where things are. There's a beautiful deserted gulf, and then there's the part with goods and services. Guess which has more appeal...

2011-07-04T09:45:00.000-07:00

We are back in our beloved Guatemala, in the town of Livingston at the mouth of the Rio Dulce. We will head upriver and hang for awhile, mosquitos permitting.

This has been an interesting trip, especially the check-out and check-in you go through in every country. Leave Honduras: Customs, Immigration, Port Captain. Enter Guatemala: same process. None of these buildings are near each other- or the place shown on your map. And they are bureaucracies that could put the SF Building Department to shame. But we're getting used to the drill- and you meet quite a few people in the process.

It is absolutely beautiful, and starting to rain.

2011-06-21T11:36:00.000-07:00

Solstice action at Stonehenge

Yesterday we did a night dive- we were both looking forward to seeing what the fish get up to after dark. But not many were visible, in our sea of flashlights.

The experience was sort of like leaving Fenway after a night game- dark, with lots of jostling.

But if you turned off your light and looked away from the group, there were other lights visible on the reef. There are some strange luminescent creatures out there. And we will find them!

2011-06-20T16:52:00.000-07:00

Been hanging with a large family of squid, just watching them change color as they move about. Once they get used to you, you can get really close. Today we hung over a flounder on the grassy bottom and watched him changing colors. They are so confident in their camouflage you can swim right up to them. Tonight we go night diving. This reef is just full of goofy stuff.

2011-06-19T09:53:00.000-07:00

Anchored in Utila harbor.
We eat, we swim, snorkel, dive, play cards, and lie about.
Cats just lie about.
Honduras is wonderful.

2011-06-16T09:25:00.000-07:00

We went for a wall dive yesterday- to a great spot on the north side of Utila. All the corals were growing sideways, with the attendant creatures clinging on. Mostly small thing- cleaner shrimp, worms, brittle stars. Every few feet is a new picture. If you could stop gazing at the wall for a moment and look out into open water, fish were swimming by at odd angles. Someone here may have pictures- hard to do justice to the scene, though.

When I asked our dive instructor for pics of underwater creatures, he sent this:

2011-06-09T11:23:00.000-07:00

We've been in Utila for 3 weeks it's just very easy to stay here -anchoring is free, diving is cheap, the food is doable, if not exciting (really, it's the pineapple that keeps us here.)

Yesterday we watched on the pier as a fisherman cut three 4' fish into filets- a female dolphinfish and two wahoo. People gathered to watch -torn, I'm sure, between saying 'great catch!' and 'wtf were you thinking??" Overfishing is a big issue here. Well, you didn't have to ask- his son was looking on entranced, and his wife brought out containers from the restaurant next door. It was an event you don't see every day.

2011-06-01T11:48:00.000-07:00

We're in Utila, waiting to dive- the heavens just opened up, so we'll see how intrepid the other divers feel. Yes, I know it's wet down there. The snorkeling's also excellent- coral and small creatures will cling to any random rock or piece of debris, and set about building a terrarium- uh, aquarium. Anyway, very cool.

2011-05-27T08:52:00.000-07:00

Greetings from the divers' college (so called) on Utila. We actually got the day wrong- we need a tuneup so we're going out tomorrow morning. Today will just be another day of lying around, sitting in various drawing spots, and jumping in and out of the water. All who like that agenda are welcome to join us.

Our first anchoring spot was next to absolutely dazzling reef. The colors have been bumped up a notch from Florida waters. Now we're closer to the town, so it's just sea grass.

2011-05-23T07:46:00.000-07:00

We've been sitting here in a very nice marina at the lagoon at La Ceiba acclimating to the third world; it really is a different style of living that takes some getting used to. In a few days we will head out to the reefs off Honduras and do a whole bunch of snorkeling and swimming and hanging out in island towns, and we may be out of touch for awhile. Not to worry, life is good.

2011-05-22T09:11:00.000-07:00

Finally got a picture to load- very exciting!

We've been in La Ceiba for almost two weeks, so are about ready to see some other parts of Honduras. We're just getting used to the idea of being in another country. I went to Spanish classes for a week, while Lorenzo changed out the stabilizing fish on the boat- to smaller ones- and made some repairs to the manifold. It's very quiet here out of season, and sort of mosquitoey along this canal.

Yesterday was the Carnival de San Ysidro- huge parade followed by a raucous fiesta. Crowded, hot, and very loud. it's supposed to be very fun after dark, but we didn't last that long.

2011-05-09T14:14:00.000-07:00

We left Key West last Wednesday afternoon. There was a good weather window, with minimal winds and calm seas predicted, so we came straight on through. With three people aboard to stand watch, it was a snap. Without really planning it, we wound up in Honduras. It was one of the places we were talking about.

We have to make a repair on our engine manifold, so today we took a cab to town, and loaded up on parts. This is a port town, so marine hardware availability is pretty good. Sensing boredom ahead, our crew- Nick- set off for Utila on the ferry. This is supposedly a lovely island- we passed it on the way in. We'll probably catch up with him later on this week.

Cats are well; Tony fasted all the way here. There were flying fish on the deck every morning for Cleo.

2011-05-01T14:44:00.000-07:00

Atlantic Black Sea Hare, Aplysia morio

Another fabulous creature. It was grazing on the sea floor, pulsating along like a giant morning glory.

2011-04-28T06:53:00.000-07:00

Sharksucker: Echeneis naucrates

We have arrived at a new level: when we went swimming yesterday, we had our own remora. Or Lorenzo did, anyway- I think they like the bare-chested look. He may have picked them up going by the nurse sharks. Plus a pair of tiny blue fishes- lovely, but who knows who they were. They stayed with us the whole time we were swimming.

Happy Easter!

2011-04-23T16:02:00.000-07:00

brought to you by the Mangrove Upside-down Jellyfish, Cassiopeia andromeda.

they're 6 or 7 inches in diameter, and very lovely. Ours had more brown, contrasting with the white branchy parts.

from Gulfspecimen.org,

True scyphozoan jellyfish are a familiar sight along the seashore, and they can usually be seen pulsating along the shallows, contracting and expanding their umbrellas. Along the southeast Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts a number of species are common. In some summer months millions of pale white Cannonball Jellyfish Stomolophus meleagris rapidly move through the blue water, stinging everything in their path.

sounds romantic, no?

2011-04-17T11:22:00.000-07:00

90 degrees and gorgeous, we eat, we swim, we sleep. Have to do errands outside of siesta hours. The cats look very hot today- think perhaps Cleo would like to be shaved.

We'll stay here for another week or so waiting for packages to show up, setting up a SAT phone and firing up the SSB radio. When we leave here, we will effectively go off grid as far as phone and internet go. We'll still get email- internet cafes are everywhere- but we can chuck our verizon phones overboard, causing heavy-metal pollution in the deep. When we arrive in a new country we'll get whatever phone card they're using and call everyone. We do, of course, have multiple layers of emergency electronic equipment should thing go sour, but have no plans to use them.

2011-04-04T15:32:00.000-07:00

Barbara and Bob on the Dry Tortugas ferry

We've always wanted to make this trip, and it's best to go by ferry- the anchorage for other boats is so limited. So we made the journey Sunday along with 140 fellow tourists. Toured the fort, snorkeled, ate. 2.5 hours each way. Recommended.
more pix

2011-03-31T09:46:00.000-07:00

It's fun being tourists! This week we're staying with Bob and Barbara in this lovely cottage, in walking distance to all the attractions of Key West. They rented a car, so we can visit the cats several times a day. Though we do miss the access to heavy equipment and welding supplies, we'll get back there soon enough.

2011-03-29T09:59:00.000-07:00

Reaux, Joyce, and Chew at the museum (note the metalic trees)

This is one of the few photos I took in SF that's even in focus- surrounded there by competent photographers, too. We had a wonderful visit- saw lots of friends, and It was all great. We got back yesterday morning to tropical heat- the ocean is now like bath water.

2011-03-24T09:00:00.000-07:00

Lorenzo and Fausto

Frederick and Barbara

with Dugan at SF Playhouse

2011-03-22T16:15:00.000-07:00

Dugan and Alejandra

So far we have managed to find several friends, often force-feeding them dim sum or other ethnic foods not provided in the south. The rain has been helpful; nobody's straying too far from home. We're still looking for Dan and Leslie, Lynnette, and Louise.

Nick and Alice

2011-03-16T07:21:00.000-07:00

This boat was dropped next to us yesterday. The story is that they pulled into the boatslip, unannounced- whereupon everyone on board disappeared. Despite the Florida registration sticker, they came from Cuba.

2011-03-04T04:43:00.000-08:00

Stash the drugs, hide the children, sandbag the front door!

We're coming to San Francisco March 17 to 27 and we will find you.

2011-03-01T08:00:00.000-08:00

Lorenzo and Tim raised the fins this morning, putting the final touch on the stabilizers. This is the culmination of several weeks of work, and they want all due acknowledgement. They do seem to work nicely, at least on land.

2011-02-28T08:14:00.000-08:00

ok, Meg- we saw these guys yesterday, in rather murky water:

Green Turtle

Sharpnose Puffer

Blue Angelfish

2011-02-24T14:57:00.000-08:00

Spotted Eagle Ray

I just saw one of these guys when I was swimming- about 3.5 feet across. There are some interesting animals out there, right off the boatyard. A bit of nice coral as well.

Green Moray

Sea Hare (a mollusk, not a vegetable)

2011-02-20T06:30:00.000-08:00

Lorenzo's making so much noise and dust around here that I fled into town and volunteered my services. There's an organization here called Reef Relief, and they generously offered me space to spend the day, chatting up tourists, watching movies and reading about coral reefs- bliss!

2011-02-13T05:45:00.000-08:00

Chris and Galia go out for lunch

It's such fun having children- wish we'd thought of it sooner! We went to restaurants, and cooked. Though it was sort of cold and windy for here, we went to the beach to investigate the new snorkel trail. And yesterday we took a charter trip out to the reef. Saw lots of corals and fish- spotty, though, not a continuous show. C&G did lots of exploring on their own- pursuing their obsession with Key Lime Pie, and checking out the night life. This morning they left to go home, with a detour planned through the Miami galleries.

2011-02-03T10:41:00.000-08:00

A new shade of blue is going on now- Tim and Lorenzo are hard at work. We get to do the boat name over again, too, because you can't save decals. What port name should we use? San Francisco seems the logical choice, although the idea of docking this boat in SF is pretty far-fetched. Maybe we'll just make something up.

2011-01-26T07:54:00.000-08:00

We're doing a complete paint job and just ordered some steel, so we can make some stabilizers to cut down on rolling at sea- Tony's request. All this will take some time, so we will be here in Key West for at least a couple of months. Long enough to check out the coral reef, visit restaurants, and even entertain guests should they appear.

2011-01-19T05:15:00.001-08:00

It was raining here all day Monday, so the ibis were checking out puddles on the baseball field for treats. We're getting some scraping and painting done, working with a local guy. He comes over for 6-7 hours a day. The water's warming up - swimming is getting better. There's one spot right next to an old tugboat that's like an aquarium. Must find a picture of the guy I saw there yesterday- some sort of kingfish.

King Mackerel, according to the web. This one was over 3' - fishermen love them.

2011-01-13T09:39:00.000-08:00

Got the boatyard blues again.
We're on the hard getting a bunch of work done on the boat so we can head out again. Key West is a lot of fun to hang out in so we're not pulling our hair out. I can't really tell all the crazy stuff that goes on here because, unlike Louisiana, some people in Florida can read, and we do like the people here. The boatyard is a little like a large commune of derelicts, millionaires, and miscreants all having a good time. If it all works out ok we will stay here a few months and get a lot done- tons of rust to deal with, bottom paint, and maybe some stabilizers to cut down on the rolling.

more pix!

2011-01-06T16:18:00.000-08:00

from Marathon to Key West, FL
N 24 33.612 W -81 44.173
41 miles, 7 hours (2 days)

Got to Stock Island today, and they pulled us out of the water as soon as we arrived. Dock space is at a premium- Race Week starts the 17th, and the boatyard is overrun with business. 'BP money', they told us. So we're fifteen feet in the air, without power, listening to the rain at the moment.

more pix!

2011-01-04T05:52:00.000-08:00

Still in Marathon, at the crossroads of the boating world- we'll probably head to Key West tomorrow. Customs boarded us yesterday! not as exciting as local police. They were lovely young men in search of 'people and drugs', as they put it. We were evidently very dull quarry, but they politely discussed the re-entry requirements for American cats before roaring off in a small boat with 4 large outboards.

Did you know: if you take your cat to the Bahamas legally, he can get a Bahamian passport! We're not going there.

2010-12-31T13:04:00.000-08:00

reminder from Elle: don't forget to put coins outside your door tonight and bring them back in first thing tomorrow, for prosperity in the new year.

additional insurance: we were on a lovely boat today, and the owner was putting coins on all the stairs to ensure good fortune. She said it was a Chinese custom. I can find nothing about this on line, but am testing it out here anyway.

2010-12-29T17:06:00.000-08:00

from Channel Key to Marathon, FL
N 24 41.782 W -81 07.068
19 miles, 3 hours

We got to Marathon yesterday and anchored in our usual spot: beside the sunken fishing boat just west of Vaca Key. And it is cold. Not to be all whiney about temps in the low 60's, but it is not what people here expect. A wonderfully sociable place, there are all sorts of lunches, happy hours, lectures, yoga classes, bingo games, etc. On New Year's Day, they've announced there will be a swim at noon, no matter what the water temperature! probably around 65 ...

2010-12-28T06:12:00.000-08:00

from Key Largo to Channel Key, FL
N 24 47.283 W -80 54.989
36 miles, 8 hours

Here's our wake, probably composed of exquisite corals- no, not seriously. We did cut a swathe through Florida Bay, though. 6.5' draft, 7' channel. We forgot the Coast Guard rule: double the draft of your boat, and stay out of anything less.

2010-12-26T17:12:00.000-08:00

from Miami to Key Largo, FL
N 25 07.374 W -80 26.032
47 miles, 7 hours

2010-12-24T05:48:00.001-08:00

Day 86

2010-12-22T08:59:00.000-08:00

Typical Lincoln Road beauty. International tourists, dogs in strollers. Unwalkably high heels. The weekend is worth waiting for, but it's a show every night.

2010-12-21T05:58:00.000-08:00

nice, right?

Day 83-85

2010-12-19T17:00:00.000-08:00

They do have quite a beach. It goes on for miles and miles- this is on South Beach near the hotels (each one has slightly different cabañas. It looks like fun). The main activity here is gathering on the streets to watch each other walk by. Fashion-watching, dog-watching, accent-eavesdropping, all top-notch.

Day 82

2010-12-18T05:41:00.000-08:00

from Hollywood to Miami, FL
N 25 47.779 W -80 08.931
16 miles, 3 hours

What does one do in Miami?

Day 81

2010-12-17T04:02:00.000-08:00

from Lake Worth to Hollywood, FL
N 26 00.551 W -80 07.197
53 miles, 8 hours

Out on the ocean most of the day yesterday- it was fairly calm. That's how we like the ocean: UNEVENTFUL. We came in at Fort Lauderdale, waited for a few bridges. Anchored in one of the keyholes off the ICW- kids water skiing around us.